Basement Waterproofing Solution


FAQ

Q. Why does my basement get water sometimes and sometimes not?

A. Although many factors can contribute to water intrusion into your basement or crawl space, the primary cause is hydrostatic pressure. When the ground under and around your home is saturated, the rising "false" water table exerts an abnormal amount of lateral pressure on the walls and hydrostatic pressure on the floor, trying to lift the house out of the ground. These conditions are determined by how much rain we get, snow melts, soil type and underground springs, to name a few.

Q. Can a sealant or waterproof paint correct this problem?

A. There are two very important things to consider here. First, any product used on the inside of the basement walls is a "barrier method" designed to trap the water and keep it from entering the basement. Second, it is not a permanent solution and do we want to create a dam inside your walls which would put even more lateral and hydrostatic pressure on the structure?


Paints and sealants are fine for occasional damp spots, but, over the long haul, they cannot keep water intrusion from happening. In fact, they can make a problem worse by keeping the stored water in the wall and creating deterioration of the lower wall.

Q. Is there anything I can do to solve my problem?

A. Perhaps. Make sure your gutters and downspouts are in working order, keep debris from window wells and add covers. Check to see that the grading around the house is sloped away from the structure. If, after all of these precautions are maintained and you still get seepage, Basement Waterproofing Solutions should really come out to evaluate your situation.

Q. Is there any cost or obligation in order to receive a consultation from BWS?

A. Absolutely not. We will set any time that is convenient with you and/or your significant other, do an inspection, explain what the causes are, design a guaranteed solution to your specific problem and leave you with a written proposal to evaluate.

Q. How do I get started?

A. Give us a call at our toll free phone number 1-800-390-9271. You will be contacted quickly and be on your way to a healthy, more useful dry basement.

 



Here are some additional resources that explain some of the issues and materials we come across frequently. If you have an online resource that you would like to share with us, please let us know.

 

1. How To Keep Your Foundation Strong 2. More Information About Bentonite Waterproofing Abstract 3. More Information About Remedial Bentonite Waterproofing Grout 4. A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, & Your Home


1. How To Keep Your Foundation Strong

The foundation of your home not only supports the entire structure; it keeps water from seeping into the basement. Keeping the basement waterproofed and dry requires some care. It is not unusual for a house to experience basement wetness at some point in time. You can take measures that prevent moisture problems from developing. Proper drainage and grading carries surface water away from the foundation. This is essential during periods of heavy rainfall or rapid snowmelt. Surface water can be described as water from rainfall, sprinklers, hoses, etc.



2. About Bentonite Waterproofing Abstract

Introduced in 1963, the Volclay Panel® was the first commercially available bentonite waterproofing system and maintains being one of the most environmentally sensitive waterproofing systems still today. Once installed and backfilled against, the corrugated kraft board biodegrades, and the bentonite hydrates and forms a seamless waterproofing membrane on the exterior of the structure. Volclay Panels are special 4-ft by 4-ft corrugated kraft boards that contain 1.0-lb. of sodium bentonite per square foot in the flutes of the board. Since its introduction, more than one-half billion square feet have been successfully installed on thousands of projects worldwide.


Today, two different Volclay Panel types are available: Volclay Type 1 Panel and Volclay Type 1-C Panel. Both are typically used to waterproof cast-in-place concrete backfilled foundation walls. The Type 1-C Panel is the standard 4-ft by 4-ft panel that features a temporary, water-resistant coating on one-side. The special coating inhibits premature hydration of the sodium bentonite from inclement weather prior to backfilling. Once backfilled, the coated panel will hydrate normally, forming a monolithic waterproofing membrane.



3. More Information About Remedial Bentonite Waterproofing Grout

Bentogrout is an innovative, cost-effective remedial waterproofing system that stops water inflitration in existing concrete and masonry block foundations. For over 20 years, Bentogrout has been used stop leaks in tunnels, subways, utility vaults, manholes, and many basements of residences and commercial office buildings. It is an extremely effective way to stop water infiltration in concrete walls, floors and ceilings, and can also be used with masonry block and irregular stone foundations. Volclay Bentogrout is a high-solids grout consisting of a proprietary blend of bentonite and natural minerals formulated for sealing water leaks in existing below-grade structures. Bentogrout is pumped in a fluid state against the exterior of the structure where it sets up to a solid material, forming a high performance water barrier around the structure. No excavation or trenching is required. And since Bentogrout primarily consists of sodium bentonite, it is environmentally safe and will not degrade, thereby lasting the life of the structure.



4. A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and your Home

You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mold may be hidden in places such as the backside of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the topside of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden mold include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).


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